What Defines a Beard Style?
A beard style is more than just facial hair - it's a deliberate choice that communicates personality, enhances facial features, and becomes part of your personal brand. What separates a "beard style" from simply "having a beard" is intentionality: defined boundaries, consistent maintenance, and shape that complements your face rather than growing randomly.
Throughout history, beards have carried cultural significance. Ancient Egyptians associated beards with divinity and wisdom, sometimes wearing false beards as symbols of power. Greek philosophers wore full beards as marks of knowledge. In the 19th century, full beards represented masculinity and respectability. The 20th century saw beards cycle in and out of fashion, from the clean-shaven 1950s to the mustaches of the 1970s to the beard renaissance of the 2010s.
Today's beard landscape offers unprecedented variety. Modern grooming tools - precision trimmers, quality scissors, specialized products - allow men to achieve and maintain beard styles that would have been difficult or impossible just decades ago. You're no longer limited to "bearded" or "clean-shaven" - you can choose from dozens of distinct styles, each with its own character and requirements.
What makes a beard style work is the intersection of three factors: your natural facial hair growth pattern, your face shape and features, and your lifestyle and personal aesthetic. The best beard style isn't the trendiest one - it's the one that works with your genetics, flatters your face, and fits your daily life.
At Manhattan Barbershop, we've shaped thousands of beards across every style imaginable. Our barbers understand that beard work is as much art as technique - it requires assessing facial structure, understanding growth patterns, and having the precision skills to execute clean lines and balanced proportions. Whether you're growing your first beard or refining a style you've worn for years, expert guidance makes all the difference.
Classic Beard Styles
Understanding the major beard style categories helps you identify what resonates with your personal style and what will work with your facial hair growth patterns.
Full Beard
The full beard is the most iconic and traditional beard style - facial hair covering the cheeks, chin, jawline, and upper lip in a connected, cohesive look. This is what most people picture when they hear "beard."
A proper full beard isn't simply letting facial hair grow wild. It requires defined boundaries: a clean neckline (typically one to two finger-widths above the Adam's apple), shaped cheek lines (either natural or slightly refined), and overall shaping to create flattering proportions. The length can vary from short and tight (1/2 inch) to long and flowing (6+ inches), but the coverage is consistent.
Best for: Men wanting classic masculine aesthetic, those with good facial hair coverage, professionals in beard-friendly industries
Face shapes: Particularly flattering for round and oval faces (adds length), works well on square faces
Growth timeline: 2-4 months to achieve full coverage and density
Maintenance: Professional trim every 2-4 weeks depending on length, daily beard oil application
The full beard has become increasingly accepted in professional environments. What was once considered bohemian or rebellious is now mainstream - executives, doctors, lawyers, and professionals across industries wear well-groomed full beards. The key is maintenance: a scraggly, unkempt full beard reads as neglect, while a properly shaped and maintained full beard communicates intentionality and care.
Different full beard styles exist within the category. The corporate full beard is shorter (1-2 inches), neatly shaped with defined lines. The natural full beard embraces organic growth patterns with minimal shaping. The lumberjack or yeard (year-beard) is longer and fuller, often 4+ inches, making a bold statement.
Growing a full beard requires patience. The first month is the hardest - itching, patchiness, and the awkward growth phase where it doesn't yet look like a "style." Most men give up during this phase. Those who persist through to months 2-3 are rewarded with a beard that has coverage, length, and the foundation for proper shaping.
At Manhattan Barbershop, we specialize in full beard shaping and maintenance. Our barbers use a combination of scissors, clippers, and straight razors to create clean lines and balanced proportions. We assess your face shape and recommend optimal length and fullness. For men growing full beards, we provide "growth trims" that shape while preserving length, helping your beard grow into its ideal form rather than just growing wild.
The full beard works best with good facial hair genetics - reasonable coverage on cheeks, density on chin and mustache areas. If you have patchy cheeks, a full beard may not be ideal, or you might opt for a shorter length where patches are less noticeable.
Goatee
The goatee focuses facial hair on the chin and mustache areas while keeping cheeks clean-shaven. The classic goatee (sometimes called a "circle beard") connects the mustache and chin beard in a continuous loop around the mouth.
The goatee offers a middle ground between clean-shaven and fully bearded - it's facial hair with clear boundaries and definition. The style draws attention to the mouth and chin, creating a focal point and adding dimension to the lower face.
Best for: Men with patchy cheek growth, those wanting facial hair without full commitment, professional environments
Face shapes: Excellent for round faces (adds length to chin), works well on oval and square faces
Growth timeline: 4-6 weeks for full coverage, 2-3 weeks for basic shape
Maintenance: Trim every 5-7 days, daily cheek shaving to maintain clean boundaries
Goatees have interesting cultural history. They became popular in the 1990s and early 2000s across diverse groups - from jazz musicians to tech entrepreneurs to action movie villains. This versatility speaks to the goatee's chameleon quality: depending on how it's styled and who's wearing it, it can read as artistic, edgy, professional, or casual.
The goatee comes in variations. The classic circle beard connects mustache and chin in a round shape. The pure goatee (less common today) is chin hair only, no mustache. The extended goatee widens to include more of the jawline. Each variation creates different proportions and aesthetics.
The key to a great goatee is precision. The boundaries must be clean and symmetrical - sloppy edges make goatees look unkempt quickly. The connection between mustache and chin beard should be smooth and intentional. At Manhattan Barbershop, we create goatees using a combination of clippers for bulk shaping and trimmers for clean lines, finished with straight razor work for the sharpest edges.
Goatees work particularly well for men whose facial hair grows densely on the chin and mustache but sparsely on cheeks. Rather than fighting patchy coverage, the goatee embraces where growth is strongest and keeps the rest clean-shaven.
One challenge with goatees: they require discipline. Cheeks need regular shaving or trimming to maintain the style. Unlike full beards where stubble on cheeks blends into the beard, goatees need clean contrast. This means daily or every-other-day cheek maintenance.
The goatee's symmetry is crucial. Because the style is so defined and focused, any asymmetry is immediately noticeable. Professional shaping ensures the goatee is centered on your face, properly proportioned, and balanced on both sides.
Van Dyke
The Van Dyke is a distinguished beard style featuring a mustache and pointed chin beard that don't connect - clean-shaven space exists between them. Named after 17th-century Flemish painter Anthony van Dyck (whose self-portraits featured this style), the Van Dyke has an artistic, vintage character.
The Van Dyke differs from the goatee in this crucial disconnection. The mustache stands alone above the lip. The chin beard (typically pointed or tapered) stands alone on the chin. The area between remains clean-shaven, creating visual separation and distinctive character.
Best for: Creative professionals, those wanting artistic or vintage aesthetic, men comfortable with maintenance
Face shapes: Excellent for round and square faces (adds vertical length), works on oval faces
Growth timeline: 6-8 weeks for proper length and definition
Maintenance: Trim every 5-7 days, regular shaving to maintain clean gap between mustache and chin
The Van Dyke has been associated with artists, intellectuals, and creative types throughout its history. In the 17th century, it was fashionable among European aristocracy and painters. In modern times, it's been worn by actors, musicians, and men who appreciate its distinctive, non-mainstream character.
Executing a proper Van Dyke requires precision. The mustache must be well-defined and shaped, typically with length extending slightly beyond the corners of the mouth. The chin beard should taper to a point or rounded bottom, creating vertical emphasis. Most importantly, the gap between mustache and chin must be kept completely clean-shaven - any stubble in this area ruins the Van Dyke's distinctive separation.
The Van Dyke works particularly well for men with strong chin definition and bone structure. The pointed chin beard emphasizes the chin, so it's best suited for those whose chins are a positive feature. For men with weak or recessed chins, other beard styles that add bulk might be more flattering.
At Manhattan Barbershop, barbers like Roman who specialize in precision beard work excel at Van Dykes. The style requires expert shaping of the mustache, careful sculpting of the chin beard to achieve the right taper, and perfect cleanup of the boundaries. It's one of the more technically demanding beard styles, which is part of its appeal - a well-executed Van Dyke signals that you take your grooming seriously.
The Van Dyke can be worn at various lengths. A shorter Van Dyke (1/2 to 1 inch) is more contemporary and easier to maintain. A longer Van Dyke (2+ inches on the chin) creates more dramatic vintage character but requires more daily management with oils and balms to keep the longer hair conditioned and shaped.
One consideration: Van Dykes aren't for everyone. They make a statement and have strong visual associations (artistic, vintage, sometimes perceived as affected). If your personal style is minimalist or mainstream, a Van Dyke might feel incongruent. But for men whose aesthetic embraces distinctive style choices, the Van Dyke offers a sophisticated alternative to more common beard styles.
Designer Stubble
Designer stubble, also called "the 5 o'clock shadow" or "scruff," is intentionally maintained short facial hair growth, typically 3-5 days worth of growth kept at a consistent 2-5mm length. What separates designer stubble from "I haven't shaved" is the consistency, clean neckline, and deliberate maintenance.
This style emerged in the 1980s when actors like Don Johnson on Miami Vice popularized the rugged, deliberately unshaven look. Previously, any facial hair that wasn't a full beard was considered sloppy. Designer stubble legitimized the in-between aesthetic - masculine and textured but not fully committed to a beard.
Best for: Men wanting low maintenance with masculine edge, those testing facial hair, all professional environments
Face shapes: Universal - works with all face shapes, adds masculinity without dramatically changing proportions
Growth timeline: 3-5 days to initial length, then maintain
Maintenance: Trim every 2-3 days with stubble trimmer to maintain consistent length
Designer stubble has practical and aesthetic appeal. It's low-maintenance compared to full beards - no oils, no balms, no daily styling. It adds masculine texture and definition without the commitment or growth time of longer beard styles. It works in virtually all professional environments - even conservative industries that might question full beards typically accept neat stubble.
Maintaining designer stubble requires a quality beard trimmer with adjustable guards. Most men maintain stubble between 3-5mm (roughly 1/8 to 1/5 inch). The process is simple: every 2-3 days, trim your entire beard area to consistent length, clean up the neckline, and optionally define cheek lines. Total maintenance time: 3-5 minutes every few days.
The key to great stubble is evenness. Patchy stubble looks accidental. Even stubble at consistent length looks intentional. This is where quality trimmers matter - cheap trimmers create uneven results, while good trimmers maintain consistent length across different facial contours.
Designer stubble works particularly well for men with strong facial features - defined jawlines, prominent cheekbones, angular faces. The short growth adds texture and shadow that emphasizes facial structure. It's also ideal for men who are testing facial hair before committing to a full beard - you get a preview of coverage and density without months of growth.
At Manhattan Barbershop, we can help establish your stubble style - setting the right length, creating clean necklines, and defining cheek lines if desired. While stubble is something many men maintain at home, professional guidance helps you start with the right foundation.
One advantage of designer stubble for men with patchy facial hair: the short length minimizes the appearance of patches. Coverage that looks sparse at 1-2 inches can look reasonably even at 3-4mm. The short length creates texture without exposing density issues.
Designer stubble pairs well with all hair styles - from buzz cuts to longer classic cuts. It adds masculine edge without competing with your hairstyle. It's also remarkably versatile for different contexts: stubble works at the gym, the office, casual weekends, and date nights equally well.
Mustache
The mustache is facial hair on the upper lip only, with the rest of the face clean-shaven. Once the dominant facial hair style (particularly in the late 19th and early-to-mid 20th centuries), the standalone mustache is now a bold, distinctive choice that makes a statement.
Mustaches come in numerous variations: the classic Chevron (thick, covers upper lip), the Handlebar (long with upturned waxed ends), the Pencil (thin line above lip), the Walrus (thick and drooping), the Horseshoe (extends down to jawline), and many others. Each variation has different character and cultural associations.
Best for: Men comfortable making bold style statements, vintage aesthetic appreciation, distinctive personal branding
Face shapes: Works best on longer faces and oval faces (adds horizontal width), can shorten long faces
Growth timeline: 4-8 weeks for proper density and length, varies by style
Maintenance: Weekly trim for most styles, daily waxing for handlebar styles
Mustaches carry strong cultural associations and have cycled through perception over decades. In the early 1900s, nearly all adult men wore mustaches - it was default masculinity. By the 1920s-30s, Hollywood leading men often wore thin, groomed mustaches. The 1960s-70s saw thick, expressive mustaches in counterculture and popular culture. The 1980s-90s saw mustaches decline significantly. The 2000s-2010s brought ironic mustache revival, and now in the 2020s, mustaches are experiencing genuine renewed appreciation.
The standalone mustache requires confidence. It's not a subtle style choice. People notice and have opinions about mustaches. This isn't necessarily negative - in fact, for men who want their appearance to communicate personality and individuality, a mustache delivers that in ways few other grooming choices can.
Different mustache styles communicate different aesthetics. The classic Chevron (think Tom Selleck or Freddie Mercury) communicates masculine confidence and retro cool. The waxed Handlebar signals vintage appreciation and attention to detail. The thin Pencil mustache suggests old Hollywood sophistication. Each style has its own maintenance requirements and associations.
At Manhattan Barbershop, we help clients shape and maintain all mustache styles. The key to a great mustache is clean boundaries - the line between mustache and bare skin should be crisp and intentional. The lip line needs regular trimming to keep hair from covering the upper lip (unless you're going for a Walrus style where that's the point). Symmetry is crucial since mustaches are so visually focused.
Growing a mustache requires patience through an awkward phase. The first 2-3 weeks often look sparse and undefined. By week 4-6, density improves and the mustache can be shaped properly. Different growth rates in different areas (some men grow faster in the center, others on the sides) create temporary imbalance that resolves with time.
Mustache maintenance varies by style. Simple classic mustaches need weekly trimming and daily combing. Handlebar mustaches require daily waxing to achieve and maintain the turned-up ends. Longer mustaches benefit from mustache wax or balm for hold and conditioning.
The mustache is experiencing a cultural moment. What felt ironic or costume-like in the 2000s now feels legitimate again. Men across age groups and professions are wearing mustaches without self-consciousness. The key is commitment - a mustache worn tentatively looks uncertain, while a mustache worn with confidence looks intentional.
Choosing Your Beard Style
Selecting the right beard style involves understanding how different styles interact with your face shape, lifestyle, and personal aesthetic.
Face Shape Guide
Oval Face: You have maximum flexibility - nearly all beard styles work well on oval faces because they're naturally balanced and proportionate. Full beards, goatees, Van Dykes, stubble, and mustaches all complement oval face shapes. Choose based on personal style preference and lifestyle rather than face shape requirements.
Round Face: Your goal is adding vertical length and definition. Full beards work well if kept longer on the chin and shorter on the sides (creating a more oval silhouette). Goatees and Van Dykes are excellent because the vertical emphasis elongates the face. Avoid very short stubble that emphasizes roundness. Avoid wide, bushy full beards that add horizontal width.
Square Face: Your strong, angular jawline is enhanced by most beard styles. Full beards complement the masculine bone structure. Stubble emphasizes the jawline beautifully. Even clean-shaven works well on square faces, so beards are about personal preference rather than necessity. Avoid overly styled or sculpted beards that compete with your natural strong features.
Oblong/Long Face: Your goal is adding width and avoiding additional length. Full beards with volume on the sides work well - they add horizontal dimension. Avoid goatees and Van Dykes which add vertical emphasis. Mustaches can work well as they add horizontal width. Keep beard styles shorter to medium rather than long and pointed.
Heart-Shaped Face: (Wide forehead, narrow chin) Your goal is adding bulk and definition to the chin area. Full beards work excellently, creating balance with the wider forehead. Goatees add focus and width to the chin. Avoid thin, sparse beard styles that emphasize the narrow chin. Stubble works well as it adds texture without extreme styling.
Diamond Face: (Wide cheekbones, narrow forehead and chin) Full beards create balance by adding width at the chin to match the cheekbones. Goatees work well. Mustaches can complement the angular features. The key is creating balance - avoid styles that further emphasize the cheekbones at the expense of other features.
Lifestyle Considerations
Time Investment: Full beards require daily oiling and weekly professional or home trimming. Goatees and Van Dykes need regular cheek shaving plus weekly beard trimming. Designer stubble needs trimming every 2-3 days. Mustaches vary - classic styles need weekly trims, handlebar mustaches need daily waxing. Be realistic about time you'll invest.
Professional Requirements: Most modern workplaces accept well-groomed beards of all styles, but some conservative industries (certain law firms, financial institutions, client-facing corporate roles) still prefer clean-shaven or subtle stubble. Healthcare and food service sometimes have beard regulations for hygiene reasons (though beard nets solve this). Know your industry's culture.
Partner Preferences: While you should wear what makes you confident, be aware that beard styles affect kissing and physical intimacy. Some partners love beards, others find them scratchy. Communication helps. Well-maintained, soft beards (with oils and balms) are more partner-friendly than dry, wiry, unkempt beards.
Maintenance Skills: Full beards can be maintained at home with practice and tools or through regular barbershop visits. Goatees and Van Dykes require precision that many men struggle with at home - regular professional shaping helps. Stubble is easily maintained at home. Mustaches vary by complexity of style.
Climate: Hot, humid climates make full beards less comfortable for some men (though others don't mind). Stubble stays cooler. Cold climates make beards pleasant - they add warmth and protection. Consider your local weather and whether you spend time outdoors.
Activity Level: Athletes, gym regulars, and active men often prefer shorter beard styles (stubble, short full beards) because longer beards can be uncomfortable during intense activity. Helmets, masks, and safety equipment can affect beard style choices in certain professions and hobbies.
Growing & Maintaining Your Beard
Successful beard growing and maintenance requires understanding the process and having realistic expectations.
The Growth Timeline:
- Week 1-2: Initial growth, possible itching as hair breaks through skin, appears patchy and uneven - Week 3-4: Itching subsides, coverage begins to look more intentional, still relatively short - Week 5-8: Beard reaches length where style becomes apparent, time for first professional shaping - Week 9-12: Full beard styles reach minimum viable length, can be properly shaped and styled - 3-6 months: Longer full beard styles, significant length and fullness
Managing the Itchy Phase: Nearly every man experiences itching during weeks 2-4 of growth. This happens as hair breaks through the skin and as skin underneath adjusts to being covered. Solutions: gentle exfoliation before growing, beard oil starting around week 3-4, resisting the urge to scratch (which worsens it), using a soft brush to distribute natural oils. The itching passes - don't let it derail your growth.
Dealing with Patchiness: Most beards look patchy initially because different areas grow at different rates. Cheeks often grow slower than chin and mustache. Don't judge your beard potential in the first month. By 6-8 weeks, the picture becomes clearer. If patchiness persists, consider styles that work with your growth pattern (goatees, stubble) rather than fighting it.
First Professional Shaping: We recommend your first professional beard trim around week 6-8 of growth. Even if you're growing a long beard, this initial shaping establishes clean necklines, defines cheek lines, removes split ends, and shapes the overall silhouette. Think of it as setting the foundation - your beard will grow into a better shape from this point forward.
Maintenance Frequency:
- Full beards: Professional trim every 2-4 weeks (shorter for tight styles, longer intervals for big beards) - Goatees/Van Dykes: Every 1-2 weeks for precision styles - Stubble: DIY every 2-3 days, occasional professional cleanup - Mustaches: Weekly trimming for most styles
Neckline Definition: The neckline is the most important boundary on any beard style. The standard rule: place your index and middle fingers above your Adam's apple - where your index finger sits is roughly where the neckline should be. Everything below gets shaved or trimmed clean. A neckline too high looks unnatural. A neckline too low (or undefined) looks unkempt. At Manhattan Barbershop, we establish clean necklines as part of every beard service.
Cheek Line Decisions: You have three options: natural (let your beard grow where it naturally grows), slightly refined (clean up obvious strays but follow natural pattern), or defined (create clean line for sculpted look). Most men look best with natural or slightly refined. Highly defined cheek lines can look artificial if placed wrong.
Essential Beard Care Products
Quality products make significant difference in beard appearance, feel, and maintenance.
Beard Oil: The foundational product for any beard over 1/2 inch. Beard oil moisturizes the skin underneath (preventing itching and flaking) and conditions the hair (making it softer and more manageable). Apply daily after showering to damp beard. Use 3-5 drops for short beards, 5-8 drops for longer beards. Quality beard oils use natural carrier oils (jojoba, argan, sweet almond) and essential oils for scent.
Beard Balm: Similar to beard oil but with added beeswax or butter for hold and styling. Use beard balm for longer beards that need shaping or control. Apply by warming between palms, working through beard, and shaping as desired. Beard balm provides light to medium hold while conditioning.
Beard Wash: Regular shampoo can be too harsh for facial hair and the sensitive facial skin underneath. Beard-specific washes are gentler and formulated for facial hair and skin. Wash your beard 2-4 times per week (daily washing can dry it out). On other days, rinse with water.
Beard Comb: Essential for detangling, distributing oils, and styling. Wide-tooth combs work best for longer beards and curly facial hair. Fine-tooth combs work for shorter beards and precision styling. Wood or horn combs are superior to plastic (less static, gentler on hair).
Beard Brush: Boar bristle brushes distribute natural oils, exfoliate skin underneath, and train beard hair to grow in desired direction. Use daily on dry beard before applying oils. Brush from face outward, following growth direction.
Trimming Scissors: Small, sharp beard scissors for detail work and trimming stray hairs. Essential for maintaining mustaches and doing touch-ups between professional trims.
Beard Trimmer: For maintaining stubble or doing bulk trimming on full beards. Quality trimmers have multiple length guards and powerful motors. Wahl and Andis make excellent professional-grade trimmers.
Mustache Wax: For handlebar and styled mustaches. Provides strong hold for shaping. Apply to dry mustache, work through with fingers or comb, shape as desired.
Styling Tips
Beyond basic maintenance, these techniques improve beard appearance and manageability.
Blow Drying for Volume: For full beards, use a blow dryer on low heat with a comb or brush. Dry beard while brushing outward from face. This adds volume, fullness, and trains hair to sit properly. Particularly effective for men with straight or slightly wavy facial hair.
Product Application Technique: Apply beard oil to damp beard for best absorption. Work product into skin first (where it's needed most), then work through beard to ends. For balm, emulsify completely between warm palms before applying.
Shaping with a Blow Dryer: Apply beard balm, then use blow dryer and brush to shape beard into desired silhouette while warming the balm. As it cools, the balm holds the shape. This technique is excellent for fuller beards that need control.
Dealing with Curly Facial Hair: If your beard hair is curly or wavy, embrace it rather than fighting it. Use beard oil religiously to keep curls soft and defined. Combing can separate curls - use fingers or brush for more natural curl definition.
Color Maintenance: Gray or white facial hair is distinguished, but if you prefer color consistency, beard dye exists. Professional dyeing at a barbershop looks most natural. Home dye kits work but require following instructions carefully. Consider matching your beard to your hair color or going slightly lighter.
Preventing Split Ends: Regular trimming (every 2-4 weeks) prevents split ends from developing. Beard oil keeps hair conditioned and less prone to splitting. Avoid excessive heat styling.
Eating and Drinking with Beards: Mustaches and longer beards require awareness while eating. Wipe after meals. Some men trim the mustache slightly above the lip line to prevent food contact. Napkins become important. Coffee lids help prevent beverage mustache issues.
Ready to Shape Your Perfect Beard?
At Manhattan Barbershop, we've been shaping and maintaining beards for men across Manhattan for years. Our barbers understand facial hair structure, growth patterns, and face shapes - the knowledge needed to recommend and execute the beard style that suits you best.
Whether you're growing your first beard and need guidance, maintaining an established style, or want to change your look entirely, we provide expert consultation and precision work. We use professional scissors, trimmers, and straight razors to create clean lines, balanced proportions, and shapes that enhance your natural features.
With two convenient locations in Chelsea and Midtown, and a team of barbers with over 147 combined years of experience, Manhattan Barbershop is your destination for expert beard grooming.
Book your beard trim today:
- Chelsea Location: 238 8th Ave | (212) 367-2009 - Midtown Location: 875 3rd Ave | (212) 308-0362
Walk-ins welcome, or book online for guaranteed availability. Our beard trim service starts at $25 and includes consultation, precision trimming, neckline and cheek line cleanup, and finishing with premium beard oil. Many clients also opt for our Haircut + Beard Trim combo service for complete grooming.
Experience the difference that expert beard work makes - once you get a professional beard trim at Manhattan Barbershop, you'll understand why so many Manhattan men trust us with their grooming.